Canal du Loing

Old Lavoir at Chateau Landon

We had only one more step along this network of Canals before we reached the Seine River: The Canal du Loing. The Canal, which always runs close to the  Loing River is about 50 kilometres long with 19 locks which are all now automatic and work very well. In fact, we would give this canal the prize for the most reliable automatic locks we have used. It was completed in 1723 by the Duke of Orleans to connect his Canal going to Orleans with the Seine. It was sold to the State in 1860. There were several commercial barges on this Canal. While it was good to see them, we were pleased not to get caught behind any going along, as their normal speed here is 4 kilometres an hour. They are of necessity very low entering and exiting locks because they fit into the lock completely without any space to spare. If the driver doesn't steer straight there would be quite a mess- but they are so skilful that accidents are not common. 
The countryside is mainly rural, with forest areas along the way. We had travelled the canal four years ago and did not remember these forests, then realised that was in mid- April when the mainly deciduous trees would have been quite bare. Now we were travelling in the height of summer and the  foliage dense providing very attractive views.

The old Abbey
We cycled to the old fortified town of Chateau Landon. The main attraction is an 11th Century abbey now appropriately used as a retirement home. The views from its rooms must be magnificent as it is perched on a spot overlooking the surrounding valley.

Looking up to the town through 100 narrow stepsFete National, July 14th was looming so we wanted to find a suitable town to experience the celebrations. We found that Bagneaux sur Loing was celebrating with fireworks so headed there. The mooring is alongside a factory that dominates the town but seemed to be closed. We got talking to a local who frequently walked his dog along the canal, and he filled us in one the  history of this town and of the factory itself.

The huge and historic glass & Pyrex factory on site of the first glassmaking
Sand ideal for glassmaking is found in this area. As a result, Bagneaux has had glass works dating back to 1750 when the royal glass works were established on the site next to our mooring. The factory near us had for the last 100 years been owned by Corning to produce Pyrex glass. There have been two other glass works also owned by Corning and one partly owned by that company, producing a variety of specialist products such as ceramic glass for cook tops and high quality optical glass for products such as telescopes. Specialist glass workers were attracted to live in Bagneaux and most of the population of 4,500 were employed in that industry, attracting support organisations such as a welfare society to take care of their special health and other support needs.

The glassblowers
Then two things happened: the special sand started to run out; and in January 2014 Corning reorganised its operations and closed those factories in the town which it fully owned; the final factory was able to be kept running because there was a different majority owner. It employs 400 people making ceramic cook tops and similar products. It is the biggest in Europe and one of the largest in the world (it has three factories worldwide). The town population is currently half what it was, but the Mairie next January is re- opening the huge main factory area for smaller businesses.

The Mairie
The townspeople are still being well looked after by a very active Mairie which incidentally is housed in the most magnificent building we have seen for a town of this size. The fireworks are an example of their active involvement and of the town's response. The venue was a large area of parkland near the Canal, starting with food on sale at 7pm and culminating in the fireworks at 11.30. From about 6.30 there was a steady stream of families passing the boat with picnic rugs, chairs and hampers. A second wave started about 9pm, presumably of those who had eaten at home, so we decided to go along at 10.15 to get a good spot. The whole area was covered by people from tiny babies to the elderly and there must have been at least 10,000, several times the population of the town.  The fireworks were certainly worth waiting for, half an hour of really spectacular action, enhanced by the very pretty setting.  

The crowd building towards a final 10,000

After this very informative National Day stop, we continued along the Canal du Loing to its end where it joins the Seine at St Mammes.

Best Regards,

Penny and Dave