A great time for frogs

We are now enjoying sunny, warm weather with temperatures up to 30degC. The flooding has subsided on the Armancon though on the Nivernais the water levels are still too high for the entire canal to be open. It has now been unavailable for 11 days, so people may be getting a bit desperate, especially those who manage the two hotel barges. How to entertain passengers who can't travel anywhere by water when they have chosen a Canal Barge holiday? Also, the Burgundy Canal, in the lower reaches, has been busy with rental boats. Rental companies which cannot operate because of the flooded rivers and canals have sent the renters to the Burgundy Canal which remained open throughout.

Farm building still inundated
Humans might be suffering, but the frogs are having the time of their lives in the wet conditions. We heard what we took to be a large flock of geese making a great din in a pool below the bridge near us at the little town of Cry, but on investigation found that is was frogs, probably in their thousands to be making so much noise. The birds too are in full song. They don't look as spectacular as those at Avalon, but they certainly sound beautiful.

The river breaking into the canal
We have enjoyed visiting several towns along the Burgundy Canal which we missed before, and especially the 16th Century Chateau of Ancy le Franc. The frescoes are remarkable and we particularly enjoyed seeing some in the process of restoration. They had been covered with wallpaper later ripped off removing much of the plaster on the wall below. Fortunately the old wallpaper was retained so could be studied to see what had been underneath. There are also un- disturbed wall paintings, ceilings and floors, all very elaborate and intricately decorated. One area had been done up because it was expected that Henry III would stay at the Chateau on his way from Lyon to Reims to be crowned. The Duke of the time went into debt to make the rooms spectacular- then Henry didn't stay after all. Great disappointment, so those involved pretended that it had happened as hoped and even had a painting done to show the King visiting!

Ceiling of Diane's bedroom, unrestored and hundreds of years oldChateau at Ancy le franc

The Burgundy Canal lock- keepers, like those on the Nivernais, are very helpful and informative. We need to tell them what time we would like to set off next day and where we expect to stop for the night. They can warn us if the spot we hope for is already occupied or otherwise unsuitable, like one where the quay had collapsed with the flooding. Usually one lock- keeper accompanies us for several locks, then hands us on to his or her colleague. Many of them, on both this canal and the Nivernais, live in lock cottages, for a reduced rent which is varied according to how many locks they look after. The longest- serving lock- keeper we have met has clocked up 40 years of service, but many have been doing this job for over 20 years, living in their cottages all that time, and restoring and beautifying them. One lady keeper was selling her own home- made jam which we were pleased to buy. Another cottage was operating as a Cave with Burgundy wines at excellent prices. The storage area had been flooded and the stock disarranged, which was perhaps how, attracted by the offer of Petit Chablis wine for A$11 a bottle, we ended up with the 2006 vintage. We have already sampled and approved.

The most locks a lock keeper has been with us is 30, of which 19 were accomplished in just one morning. These were all manual locks requiring the pushing/pulling of lock gates and the winding of handles. Very energetic, particularly on a hot day.

We have also been appreciating some very well- priced meals. We aim to have a restaurant meal about once a week, to give the cook a break and also to sample the food of the region. In each of the last three weeks we have had a 3 course menu of the day and of the region for $A28. In fact, these dinners also include bread and a pre- dinner nibble; one was a four course meal with a cheese plate included. All were of excellent quality. Remarkably, there is no mark- up on the wine. Last week a 500ml carafe of very acceptable rose was $A7.
Bon Appetit!

Penny and Dave

Unusual original frescoes- two tonedFloor