There had been a two hour delay to our trip through the tunnel while a tree was cleared from the cutting on the other side. We were glad the lock- keeper had seen it on the video cameras just before we set off. Once through the tunnel we stopped in the basin at Escommes to recover from the experience and take stock. The first stocktaking was of our bikes: we planned to ride back into Pouilly for Church on Sunday, a little under 5 kilometres. When we started taking the bikes off the boat we found that David's seat had been stolen some time since two nights before. Those who have followed previous years' blogs might recall that we had our bikes stolen in 2010 when friends were using the boat; they had been left unlocked at the side of the boat. In 2011 they were stolen again when we left them padlocked at Reims Railway Station while we travelled to Auxerre to get our visas renewed. Since then they are always padlocked with thick chains through the wheels and U- bolts locking the frames to the boat or a fixed object. We had not even thought of securing the seats so maybe we were lucky that it has taken 4 years for one to be taken. Now they will be taken off after every ride and locked in the back compartment. Ironically, a cover on the stolen seat was hiding a torn saddle, so the thief may well be disappointed to have taken the worse seat. We are disappointed too not only because of the initial inconvenience of Penny trying to cover 5 kilometres in 35 minutes on foot but also because the bike shop at Pouilly was closed on Sunday and Monday. The next hope of replacement is Dijon, probably ten days away. At least we have one seat left so we can use one bike at a time!
The pretty and tranquil Ouche River
Other than that frustration, we are thoroughly enjoying this side of the Burgundy Canal which now follows the Ouche River, a much more sedate river than the Armancon.
The Bourgogne (Burgundy) Canal
The staff continues to be very helpful. The scenery is beautiful. At first the view was dominated by the prominent Chateauneuf in Auxois, a 13th century chateau and town which command a tremendous view of the surrounding countryside. Many towns still have their old 14th Century bridge over the Ouche. What great workmanship.
13th C. Chateauneuf in Auxois
There are two hotel barges carrying a group of nineteen Americans travelling along behind us but we have passed only two boats going in the other direction. The Canal is so far in very good repair and there have been new stopping points added in interesting spots.
The time has come when it is safe to put the geraniums outside. We were lucky to be near a garden store in Pouilly so it was easy to buy and plant them right on time. We already had our herbs inside but they too are thriving on the deck.
Over eight days we have enjoyed our quiet canal travel through the Ouche Valley, descending quite steeply 76 locks in the 81 kilometre descent. We stopped at places different from those when we travelled the other way in 2010. Dijon, the capital of Burgundy, is the most famous spot along this canal, but we chose to stop at little towns on its outskirts, to continue to enjoy our quiet travel. David did ride into Dijon though, to buy a replacement bike seat. We celebrated by going for a ride the next day, locking the seats up carefully afterwards.
14th Century Bridge over the Ouche
Now after three weeks we have completed the 242 kilometres, 188 locks and one long tunnel from Migennes. During the final day and nearing St John de Losne, where it enters the Saone, we started to encounter more boats travelling. Up to now there had been two boats a day, according to the lock keeper at the "counting" station. On our last day as we neared the Saone there were five.
The service from our lock- keepers has continued to be efficient and friendly. We met one man who is the third generation to do this work, following his grandfather, when no barge had a motor, to his father who worked during the transition from horse and human to motor drawn traffic. At one lock there is an open- air museum with a large variety of old machinery including a washing machine.
Now on this canal there is very little commercial traffic. We saw only pleasure boats but there are still silos set up for use with boats, so presumably in the harvest season there are some peniches carrying grain.
Best Regards,
Penny and Dave