Yachts travelling through France, for example from the Mediterranean Sea to Britain via the Channel, need to remove or lower their masts so that they can get through bridges along the way. This can mean that the mast needs to be transported across the country which can be difficult and expensive. In the Netherlands there is a nominated route which allows such yachts to sail or motor through the country from the North or from the West. It also means that sailing boats can use the many beautiful lakes or sail to the off- coast Islands like the Frisian Islands off the Northwest Coast.
We first came across such yachts in Groningen and since then have cruised extensively on the nominated waterways. While the overwhelming majority of the yachts are Dutch, there are quite a number of German, a few Scandinavian and one sole British sailor.
We hope that those who embark on this journey are fully aware of the downside of having the mast up, and probably for a brief crossing or to go on a sailing holiday to a beautiful lake trip to a lake, that is so. But if like us the yachts are travelling long distances they must become frustrated. One stretch leading into Haarlem provides an example: in sixteen kilometres, there are thirteen opening bridges. Then in Haarlem itself there are eight opening bridges in 9 kilometres. We were lucky enough to fit under a few of them but a yacht would have to wait for each of them to open to let it through. For each bridge there are different opening regimes which can only be discovered by consulting the Almanac and (for us) translating the fine print. Closure during rush hours is common and understandable, as often major roads are affected. Others have an afternoon break on Sundays and holidays from midday to 4pm, or a rule that they will not open until ten minutes after the previous opening. The rail bridge openings usually fit with the train timetables. The most difficult bridge was on the A9, high enough for us to pass under but not so the many yachts: it opens at 5.30 am, 12 noon, 1pm and 8pm for only a few minutes each time. In Rotterdam, there is a bridge which only opens for one particular four minute time each day and you must book it at least three hours beforehand!
Yachts waiting for a bridge
For most bridges, if you are first there, it is necessary to get very close to press a button; a few advertise a VHF radio Channel. Some have a waiting area but usually only big enough for two or three boats, so everyone else has to circle or raft up. One German sailor was clearly very frustrated after negotiating this stretch and cut in straight in front of us as we entered an open bridge. Without David's urgent action he would have been very squashed, as it was clearly only just wide enough for one boat to pass through and we were almost in the opening already. Our 36tonnes does not stop like a car!
On one particular day we experienced the uncertainties of having to wait for bridges. There were two lifting bridges then a rail bridge which opened every half hour. The almanac named this as 10 past and 40 past the hour. We approached with twenty minutes to spare, and passed quickly through bridge 1; There we sat with the minutes ticking by- and lo and behold the rail bridge opened then closed, five minutes before the due time, with us still stuck behind Bridge 2. We hunted in our almanac for a phone number as there was no VHF channel or push button, and rang to be told that the rail bridge now opens at five past and thirty five past, so would next open in approximately half an hour- no explanation for why we had been left one bridge short when the operator had to know we were there because he had let us through Bridge 1. Worse, no promise that we would be let through before the next bridge opening. After three more attempts on the phone (and two hang ups, clearly sick of us) we were at last promised passage in time for the next bridge. So fifty minutes after we reached the spot we finally passed the barrier.
Plenty of masts still up here
It is no wonder that we have achieved our worst ever kilometres per hour and worst ever fuel economy on the mast- up route and other stretches with lifting bridges. So we do pity the yachts who have to stop and wait every time, wondering if the system will work for them and if they have read their almanac correctly. Still, they can often experience that sense of relief in seeing the lights turn red and green (the signal that the bridge is about to work) or the bells ringing to stop the traffic, then the green light when it is time to go through- moderated by the fear that the huge slab of road held up vertically as you pass might fall just as you are underneath.
Best Regards,
Penny and Dave